In India, turbans are referred to as a Pagri. The word specifically refers to the headdress that is worn by men and needs to be manually tied. There are several styles which are specific to different regions and religions. A Pagri is a symbol of honour and respect across all regions where it is a practice to wear one. It is also why almost of all of these will honour important guests by offering them one to wear.
In British period, The Muslim elites of South Asia especially of western Punjab used to wear long pagri which was also a symbol of nobility, honour and respect. In Punjab and Sindh members of the landed aristrocracy always wore this pagri. This pagri was a part of full formal dress and was used to wear with Sherwani.
The Sikh turban, known as the Dastar, is mandatory for all Khalsa Sikhs to wear. The Pheta is worn in Maharashtra and also has regional variants like Puneri and Kolhapuri pheta. In Mysore and Kodagu the turban is known as the Mysore Peta. The Rajastani turban is commonly called the Pagari. It will vary by caste, class, religion and region. It also serves practical functions like protecting from the elements, used as a pillow, blanket or towel. When unravelled, it is used like a rope where it is tied to a bucket to draw water from the well.
The Pagri will also vary in shape, size and colour. The colour will vary related to occasion it will be worn. For example, Saffron (associated with valour) is worn during rallies, White (associated with peace) is worn by elders, Pink (associated with spring) is worn during the spring season or marriage ceremonies, etc.
Though all styles of turban are great & wonderful, but I have presented this article & information regarding Patiala-Shahi turban especially because firstly I like this style from the day I was born as my grandfather, father, chacha ji & other relatives used to wear turban in this style; Secondly, I feel that it is the most easiest & covenient style of tying a turban and looks better aesthetically, symmetrically & artistically then other styles of turban; and Thirdly, it suits the people of all ages, whether children, youth or older ones; and Fourthly, because today most of the youngsters are forgetting and replacing this style of Turban by the sharp, narrow & tilted turban which is far away from the Patiala Shahi turban .
According to the song sung by Pammi Bai, “Paggan vichon Pagg Patiala Shahi ae, karda sifat jeehdi sara jagg ni, bochvin ne pagg sardar bannhde, shaunki bande bannhde ne tedhi pagg ni”
“Patiala Shahi, Ludhiana style, Amritsari Pagg, Tikkhi Pagg, Bhangra Pagg and the Gol Pagg, or the round turban, are the various styles out of which the Patiala style is the most popular one”, The Patiala turban was evolved over a period of time and is best suited for those with broad faces and sharp features, ethnic characteristics which exemplify Sikhs of the region.
Since its inception, however, cross migration of Sikhs within Punjab and across the world has somewhat affected the style, with the true Patiala Shahi turban connoisseurs now being relatively small in number.
Even though the Patiala turban has developed into an art form, it captures a carefree spirit, mainly because it presents a round & balanced look with its rear being flat. The thumb is used to depress the cloth at the forehead to create the perfect, triangular effect with the fifty (a band of cloth worn under the turban, the colour usually chosen to match) or patka.
Other requisites of the Patiala turban include use of Finlay‘s "F-74 mal-mal" fabric, at least seven-and-a-half meters of it or more, which is cut in half and sewn together to double the width; some light starch; and, a twist in the last larh.
Additional Deputy Commissioner, R.S. Randhawa, explains that the final larh was twisted in order to strengthen it so that it could support the kalgi (aigrette). The tradition, long after the kalgi has been discarded as an ornament, has however continued, says Mr. Randhawa. He adds that the tradition of leaving the ear lobe visible in the Patiala style is continued by those who, like their ancestors, still wish to wear earrings.
While the colours of the Patiala turban were always light, pink and lemon were regarded as the state colours. ‘‘The colours have to be soft", says Raja Malvinder Singh, scion of the Patiala royal house. He says light colours were worn since the Patiala turban took its final shape during the reign of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh. He recollects that different colours were used, depending on the festivals being celebrated. For example, the tarbuzi (watermelon) colour was worn during the Dussehra season. The darkest hue thus worn was dhani (dark green) to mark the Muslim mourning at Moharram.
Raja Malvinder states that though a style which could be loosely described as a Patiala one first came into being during Maharaja Rajinder Singh's time, it did not become identified as such and standardized until Bhupinder Singh's reign.
The Raja says that whereas the best quality of mal-mal cloth from Dhaka was used at first, Finlay's made it more accessible and commonplace once it started manufacturing the F-74 label. However, the width of this new version was 20 inches less than the earlier supply, as a result of which the turban became slightly smaller. He adds that presently only families associated with the Patiala State have continued sporting the style.
"I used to wear the Patiala Shahi turban when in college, but my style changed when I joined the Army," says Mr. Randhawa. The same is said to be true of royal family scion, Capt. Amarinder Singh. Presently, very few neelgars (dyers) in the city are said to be able to get the Patiala colours right because the traditional artisans were from the Punjabi-Muslim community, but the art is gradually being lost in the region now. Thus, Patiala-shahi turban is the part of our culture and I would like that the youngsters should reattach with their traditional roots & start wearing this Shahi style of turban...... - HARGUNPREET SINGH.
In British period, The Muslim elites of South Asia especially of western Punjab used to wear long pagri which was also a symbol of nobility, honour and respect. In Punjab and Sindh members of the landed aristrocracy always wore this pagri. This pagri was a part of full formal dress and was used to wear with Sherwani.
The Sikh turban, known as the Dastar, is mandatory for all Khalsa Sikhs to wear. The Pheta is worn in Maharashtra and also has regional variants like Puneri and Kolhapuri pheta. In Mysore and Kodagu the turban is known as the Mysore Peta. The Rajastani turban is commonly called the Pagari. It will vary by caste, class, religion and region. It also serves practical functions like protecting from the elements, used as a pillow, blanket or towel. When unravelled, it is used like a rope where it is tied to a bucket to draw water from the well.
The Pagri will also vary in shape, size and colour. The colour will vary related to occasion it will be worn. For example, Saffron (associated with valour) is worn during rallies, White (associated with peace) is worn by elders, Pink (associated with spring) is worn during the spring season or marriage ceremonies, etc.
Though all styles of turban are great & wonderful, but I have presented this article & information regarding Patiala-Shahi turban especially because firstly I like this style from the day I was born as my grandfather, father, chacha ji & other relatives used to wear turban in this style; Secondly, I feel that it is the most easiest & covenient style of tying a turban and looks better aesthetically, symmetrically & artistically then other styles of turban; and Thirdly, it suits the people of all ages, whether children, youth or older ones; and Fourthly, because today most of the youngsters are forgetting and replacing this style of Turban by the sharp, narrow & tilted turban which is far away from the Patiala Shahi turban .
According to the song sung by Pammi Bai, “Paggan vichon Pagg Patiala Shahi ae, karda sifat jeehdi sara jagg ni, bochvin ne pagg sardar bannhde, shaunki bande bannhde ne tedhi pagg ni”
“Patiala Shahi, Ludhiana style, Amritsari Pagg, Tikkhi Pagg, Bhangra Pagg and the Gol Pagg, or the round turban, are the various styles out of which the Patiala style is the most popular one”, The Patiala turban was evolved over a period of time and is best suited for those with broad faces and sharp features, ethnic characteristics which exemplify Sikhs of the region.
Since its inception, however, cross migration of Sikhs within Punjab and across the world has somewhat affected the style, with the true Patiala Shahi turban connoisseurs now being relatively small in number.
Even though the Patiala turban has developed into an art form, it captures a carefree spirit, mainly because it presents a round & balanced look with its rear being flat. The thumb is used to depress the cloth at the forehead to create the perfect, triangular effect with the fifty (a band of cloth worn under the turban, the colour usually chosen to match) or patka.
Other requisites of the Patiala turban include use of Finlay‘s "F-74 mal-mal" fabric, at least seven-and-a-half meters of it or more, which is cut in half and sewn together to double the width; some light starch; and, a twist in the last larh.
Additional Deputy Commissioner, R.S. Randhawa, explains that the final larh was twisted in order to strengthen it so that it could support the kalgi (aigrette). The tradition, long after the kalgi has been discarded as an ornament, has however continued, says Mr. Randhawa. He adds that the tradition of leaving the ear lobe visible in the Patiala style is continued by those who, like their ancestors, still wish to wear earrings.
While the colours of the Patiala turban were always light, pink and lemon were regarded as the state colours. ‘‘The colours have to be soft", says Raja Malvinder Singh, scion of the Patiala royal house. He says light colours were worn since the Patiala turban took its final shape during the reign of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh. He recollects that different colours were used, depending on the festivals being celebrated. For example, the tarbuzi (watermelon) colour was worn during the Dussehra season. The darkest hue thus worn was dhani (dark green) to mark the Muslim mourning at Moharram.
Raja Malvinder states that though a style which could be loosely described as a Patiala one first came into being during Maharaja Rajinder Singh's time, it did not become identified as such and standardized until Bhupinder Singh's reign.
The Raja says that whereas the best quality of mal-mal cloth from Dhaka was used at first, Finlay's made it more accessible and commonplace once it started manufacturing the F-74 label. However, the width of this new version was 20 inches less than the earlier supply, as a result of which the turban became slightly smaller. He adds that presently only families associated with the Patiala State have continued sporting the style.
"I used to wear the Patiala Shahi turban when in college, but my style changed when I joined the Army," says Mr. Randhawa. The same is said to be true of royal family scion, Capt. Amarinder Singh. Presently, very few neelgars (dyers) in the city are said to be able to get the Patiala colours right because the traditional artisans were from the Punjabi-Muslim community, but the art is gradually being lost in the region now. Thus, Patiala-shahi turban is the part of our culture and I would like that the youngsters should reattach with their traditional roots & start wearing this Shahi style of turban...... - HARGUNPREET SINGH.
